Banana leaf rice in Little India is a South Indian meal served on a fresh banana leaf instead of a plate. You get a mound of rice, a few vegetable dishes, crackers and pickle, and then curry is poured over the top. Side dishes such as fried chicken or fish are ordered separately.
It is filling, good value and easy once you know the steps. Here is what happens from the moment you sit down.
What is served on the leaf
Staff lay a large piece of banana leaf in front of you. Some locals wipe it with a little water first. Then the basic set arrives, one spoonful at a time.
- Rice: usually plain white rice. Some places also offer biryani rice.
- Vegetables: two or three dishes, such as cabbage, long beans or potato. They vary from day to day.
- Papadum: a thin, crisp cracker made from lentil flour.
- Pickle: a small spoonful of sharp, salty pickle, often lime or mango.
- Curry gravy: spooned over the rice. You can often choose fish, chicken, mutton or dhal, a lentil curry.
The basic set of rice and vegetables is often vegetarian. Meat and seafood come as side dishes that you order and pay for on top.
How refills work
Staff walk between the tables with pots of rice, vegetables and gravy. When your leaf runs low, they will offer more. At many places, extra rice and gravy are part of the set price. Each restaurant has its own rules, so ask if you are not sure.
How to accept or refuse more
- To accept, nod or point to the spot on the leaf where you want it.
- To say no, hold your hand flat over the leaf and smile.
- Pace yourself, as the refills come quickly.
Side dishes to order
The side dishes make the meal. Many places show them in a glass counter or bring them to your table on a tray. Point to what you want. If prices are not shown, ask first, as fish dishes are often priced by size.
- Fried chicken: crisp pieces, often coated in a red spice mix.
- Mutton: cooked dry with onions and spices, or in a thick curry.
- Fried fish or squid: coated in spices and fried until crisp.
- Fish head curry: a large dish for sharing, with okra and aubergine in a tangy curry.
- Rasam: a thin, peppery soup with tamarind, sipped or poured over rice.
- Yoghurt or buttermilk: cools your mouth after a spicy bite.
For more on the dish, see our fish head curry page.
Where to eat banana leaf rice in Little India
Several restaurants in the area serve banana leaf meals. Banana Leaf Apolo is a South Indian restaurant that serves them, along with fish head curry. Muthu's Curry on Race Course Road is another stop for fish head curry. Other South Indian places nearby, such as Komala Vilas, are worth a look for rice sets. Check each menu, as dishes differ.
For more choices, browse our list of restaurants in Little India and Jalan Besar. If you want to try other local dishes too, our list of dishes to try in Little India has ideas.
How to eat with your hands
You can eat with cutlery, and nobody will mind. But many diners eat with their right hand, which is the traditional way.
- Wash your hands at the sink. Many banana leaf restaurants have one in the dining room.
- Use only your right hand to eat. Keep your left hand clean for your drink.
- Mix a little rice with curry and vegetables using your fingertips.
- Gather it into a small ball, then push it into your mouth with your thumb.
Ask for a spoon and fork if you prefer. Staff are used to it.
How to fold the leaf when you finish
When you are done, fold the banana leaf in half. The common custom is to fold the top half towards you, which says you enjoyed the meal. Folding it away from you is said to mean the opposite, so most diners fold it towards themselves.
Leave the folded leaf on the table for staff to clear. In many places you then pay at the counter.
Visiting a temple before lunch? Read our guide to Little India temple etiquette first. More area guides are on our Little India page.
FAQs about banana leaf rice
Is banana leaf rice vegetarian?
The basic set of rice, vegetables, papadum and pickle is usually vegetarian. The curry gravy may contain meat or fish, so ask for dhal if you do not eat meat.
Are refills free?
At many places, extra rice and gravy are included in the set price. Side dishes cost extra. Rules differ, so ask staff if you are unsure.
Do I have to eat with my hands?
No. Eating by hand is traditional, but cutlery is fine. Just ask for a spoon and fork.
Which way do you fold the banana leaf?
Fold the top half towards you. This is the usual way to show you enjoyed the meal.
