Heap Seng Leong

Heap Seng Leong is a traditional kopitiam, or coffee shop, on the ground floor of a housing block at 10 North Bridge Road. It is one of the few places in Singapore that still serves kopi gu you: a cup of dark, strong coffee with a piece of cold butter melting on top. Visitors come as much for the old-style room as for the drinks.

The Shi family has run the shop since 1974, and the second generation, Shi Ting Chow, is the man behind the counter. Very little has changed inside over the decades, and that is a big part of its appeal.

What to order

The signature drink is kopi gu you. The coffee is brewed from robusta beans, which give a strong, bold cup. The butter melts into it and adds a smooth, toffee-like note. The habit started in Hainanese coffee shops in the 1930s, and few places keep it up today.

Pair your drink with kaya toast. The bread is toasted over charcoal, then spread with butter and kaya, a sweet jam made from coconut and egg. Add a set of soft-boiled eggs, which locals season with soy sauce and pepper. The usual range of kopi is here too, such as kopi-o (black with sugar), kopi-c (with evaporated milk) and kopi siew dai (less sweet).

These guides help if the names are new to you:

• How to order kopi in Singapore
• How to eat kaya toast the local way
• Soft-boiled eggs with soy sauce

The setting

Walking in feels like stepping back several decades. The walls are tiled, the tables have marble tops, and the old cabinets and glass jars of biscuits and snacks are still in use. Bills are still worked out on an abacus, and the toast is done over charcoal. Its vintage look draws a steady stream of vloggers and influencers, so do not be surprised by a few cameras.

Good to know before you go

This is a simple neighbourhood coffee shop, not a modern café. Expect simple, no-frills service. It opens early in the morning, which makes it a good stop for a local breakfast. If you have not been to one before, our guide to what a kopitiam is explains how they work.

Getting there

The nearest MRT station is Lavender, on the East-West Line.

Nearby

After breakfast, you can head to the shops and lanes of Kampong Glam and Haji Lane or visit the Sultan Mosque. Elsewhere on the same road, The Dim Sum Place serves dim sum. For more ideas, browse restaurants in Bugis and Kampong Glam or our lists of cafés and bakeries and hawker favourites.